Im learning to set Caster Camber what numbers am i looking for a street stock on a fairly flat track with tight corners

as much neg in the right as you can get and pos in the left read the tires from there

this for a base starting point for most asphalt lead sled, enduro, Factory stock or street stock with stock GM front suspensions.

RF Caster 3 to 4 degrees

LF caster 2 to 3 degrees

you want a 1 to 2 degree caster split R to L. with the right having more caster than the left.

RF camber 5 to 7 degrees

LF camber 2 to 4 degrees

toe OUT 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

with the Center link centered, first adjust Both tie rods to get the toe to ZERO, then add toe out by only adusting ( lenghening ) the right tie rod assembley.

TOO MaNY FOLKS NEVEr center the center link befor settin the toe! this is BAD!

RF camber is negative

Randy thanks for adding the positive/negative camber post, after all these years I still get them comfused,,so I look at the front to the car and both front tires should be leaned toward the inside of the track.

Got this pm,,,

[QUOTE]"with the Center link centered, first adjust Both tie rods to get the toe to ZERO, then add toe out by only adusting ( lenghening ) the right tie rod assembley"

Not trying insult you, just curious about adjusting toe on the right tie rod only? We always centered the drag link, strung the right front square with the right rear then set our toe out on the left front. When we measured ackerman this seemed to be right on the money. We run a mod at XXXXXXX though this may be different?

Like I said I've read a lot of your posts on here and think that you know what you're talking about. Just seeking some food for thought. I'm pretty green at setting up a race car, but think I have a pretty good base knowledge. My car went through the center as good if not better than most everyones we raced against. That could be driver related too though?

Any info is appreciated
Thanks!
Mr. XXXXXXXXXXXX

Thanks for the PM, Mr. XXXXXXX

By doing the Right side, you get More toe out on turns when turning left on a front steer car ( GM) . If you adjust the toe out on the left side you will get LESS toe out on turns ( ackerman) when turning left.

HOWE recomends just settin the toe with the right tie rod for Howe SLM's.

Just the opposite is true for a rear steer car ( Ford).

both ways will work , but theoretically by adusting the right side tie rod you MAY be able to run LESS toe out, less toe out = less drag down the straight.

All this stuff looks great on paper, but what really counts is how you are on race day,,, always go with what gives you the best lap times.

for exapmle, Nascar is now racing 3,500 lb Go-karts at over 170 mph, they Coil bind the front suspension!!! and it is FAST. who would have ever thought you would want a solid front suspension like a go-kart on a super speedway! ( well about 5 years ago I posted that AC should have the lead sleds race with no springs, shocks, or sway bars, Jst make the suspension solid, to save racers all the money spent on rracing springs, shocks and sway bars...all the AC guys told me i was NUTS,,,Maybe I am )

here is some good tech info on Ackerman, steering arms, and steering geometry,,

http://www.woodwardsteering.com/Cat05/Cat0...PDF%2063-79.pdf

http://www.woodwardsteering.com/techinfo.htm

here is an old Lead Sled thread,,, ps. I like cake.

http://www.mstrc.com/index.php?showtopic=4062&hl

"" Alright I have kept my mouth shut when you have posted some other Stupid ideas but this one takes the cake!!!!

This idea is ludacris if you ask me....I mean the led sled class IS A LEARNING CLASS!!!!!! How can someone learn how to race if they are racing a solid hunk of steel......There have already been a few guys that have moved up from the led sleds and that is what you want...allow them to set their cars up so they learn....Right now the rules are perfect...""

I always run my right tie-rod a little longer. My reasoning is because the car will dive on the right front more under decceleration. This will cause the right tie-rod to change angle at a greater rate than the left tie-rod. So, making the right tie rod longer adds to the arc it goes through and makes the angle change less drastic than on the left.

We string ours on the right too. String, check the toe, and then adjust and re-string.

I am not sure if this even makes sense, but we have had good success with it.

If you have a toe bar (not plates) check the toe with the wheels turned to the left, you might learn that you want to run more or less toe. You can also get really tricky and lower the right front to simulate roll (bumpsteer)... I know I've gotten myself into big trouble setting up a rear steer car without doing this. Fought it for the whole time we had the car. Having a car that is toe'd correctly doesnt really matter when it bumps in twice as much as it toes out, and has negative ackerman.

Thanks guys for all the help i'll be setting it this weekend i hope as long as the paints dry

Oh yeah will these numbers work for dirt i noticed it said in the one post for a lead sled on asphalt i race dirt guess i should have said that before but have been out of town